South Korea Road Trip, Nov 2018

I attended the Asian Oceanic Neurology Conference held at COEX Conference Centre in Seoul from 8-11 Nov. As usual, I took the opportunity for sightseeing in South Korea post-conference. CJ had just completed his National Service on 5 Nov, whereas CK was back from his long summer break. Both of them joined my wife and I for the road trip in South Korea. 

Day 1 (7 November) 

We took the early morning flight at at 1.30am on 7 NOV, landed at Incheon International Airport around 8 am local time (1 hour faster than Singapore time). Clearing the immigration was a brisk. The hotel transfer chauffer whisked us to the adjacent carpark, and drove us to our hotel at Coex Intercontinental. It took us almost 2 hour to reach our hotel. After checking in, we decided to take the trains to Hwaseong fortress and Haenggung (@ detached palace  行宫). 

At the metro station, it took us some minutes to figure out which T money card to buy, and which lines to take to get to our destination. The journey took us nearly 2 hours. We stopped at a restaurant at Lotte shopping mall adjacent to Suwon metro station, then took a cab to the Fortress. 

On the way to Suwon train station

We bought our entrance tickets to the detached palace, thinking that the fortress was within the Palace compound. But alas, it was only some time later that we realised the fortress was literally an enclosure outside the Palace. We rushed through the Palace, as it was already near 4pm by then (last entrance is 4.30pm).

Snap shots of the palace (Haenggung)

entrance to the palace

autumn foliage in the palace

In search of the fortress, high and low..

Looking out for the fortress... which was apparently outside the palace

After leaving the Palace, we turned right, cut through a car park next to Palace, and walked up a slope... there it was the fortress, a UNESCO heritage site. 

Walking back to the foothill

Due to time constraints, we could only manage a short segment (possibly one quarter) of the fortress. It was not as majestic and forlorn as the Great Wall of China, but I guessed it served its purpose of guarding the residents from enemies ' invasion. 

After leaving the fortress, we took a cab to a well known BBQ Beef restaurant (Bonsuwon Galbi) in town.

By the time we reached Coex intercontinental hotel, it was already 9 pm. We accompanied CK/CJ to their place of residence (We've Hotel), a service apartment about 1 km away. 

Day 2 - 5 (8 - 11 Nov) 

Full day conference for me, while CK /CJ took time to explore Everland theme park /Bukhansan National Park, and my wife explored Myeangdong 明洞/Ehwa 梨大. 

We went for sauna /public bath at a local 24 hour sauna facility in one of the nights. It offers saunas of different themes (from cold to various  degrees of heat). You can stay overnight there if needed. 

The Library in COEX

the cartoon design is made out of stacks of books

Gangnam Square

Day 5 (11 Nov) 

Conference ended at 12 noon. CK and I walked to car rental company nearby (15 min walk) to pick up our car (hyundai avante), which was much spacious that what I anticipated). We then drove back to our hotel to pick up CJ, my wife and our luggage, and off we went for our road trip. 

First stop was Gugok waterfall near Gangchon (had our late lunch nearby before visiting the waterfall). 

entrance to the Gugok Waterfall

walking to the waterfall

glimpse of waterfall from a distant

Next stop was Soyang Dam @Soyang Lake. The ferry terminal to take a boat ride to Cheongpyeongsa was located just nearby. 

The view of the dam and lake waa rather calm and serene. Since it was getting dark then (5pm), the place was rather secluded (until a ferry started to disembark and load of passengers started to stream out from the jetty). 

We drove for 2 hours to reach our hotel, Kensington Seorak Beach Resort. The speed limits in most stretch of the roads were between 50-60 km/hour.... even in dual lanes.... and we no other vehicles in sight. 

We were all hungry but most of the restaurants were closed by 9-10 pm. Some seafood restaurants that were still open for business were rather pricey. Finally, after being guided by some kind souls whom we bumped into in a restaurant that had just closed for business, we drove to Sokcho City nearby. We managed to eat at a local restaurant serving BBQ fish, fried sausages/pancake sauid9/hot soup.... And the meal was quite delicious and cheap at 49,000 Won.

Day 6 (Nov 12)

View from our hotel room

Checked out from our hotel and drove to Seoraksan National Park 雪岳山国家公园. Took our brunch near the the entrance to the park. Fortunately, it was not so crowded that morning.

entrance to Seoraksan NP

There are several hiking trails of option (cable car up, then a short hike; waterfall trails, and two other hiking trails up the mountain).

We decided to hike up the mountain, aiming towards the rocky rock Heungulbawi (for the elderly couples aka my wife and I) and a further teneous hike up steep steps to the Ulsanbawi peak to view the rock formation (for the young siblings).

Walked passed the bronze Buddha statue (Bronze Jwabul Statue, 10 m high) , and a historical Sinheungsa Temple (a short distance from the entrance), before embarking on our hike up the mountain.

Not many hikers up the trail. It drizzled as we walked through the mountain trail. The scenery was awesome.

The rocky rock was perched right next to a grotto. 

the Grotto behind the rock (on the left)

pushing the rock

My wife and I rested for a short time near the rocky rock before making our way down the mountain. In the meantime, CK/CJ had ventured up the peak and made their way downhill. They managed to overtake us before halfway, before we reached the main entrance. 

We were too tired to explore the waterfall trail in the park. Drove out from Seoraksan National Park, and headed for Abai Village (an old fishing village) for lunch.

                                                               

ABAI Village

After Abai Village, we drove to Naksansa Temple (which is dedicated to Goddess of Mercy, Guangying). It was arguably a scenic picturesque spot, with a tall serene Guangying statue standing unobstrusively at the hill top, looking out at the ocean ahead. 

some more climbing, to reach the temple

offering candle to Guangying

The temple with its surroundings of autumn foliage was rather enchanting.

We went to Emart nearby to get some dinner, before checking into our hotel at Yongpyeong Resort (near to the Pyeongchang, winter Olympic 2018 venue). 

Day 7 (Nov 13)

Had a quick breakfast in the hotel before venturing to Odaesan National Park 五台山国家公园. 

Visited two temples there.

First temple near the entrance - Woljeongsa.

just outside the temple

walking to the first temple

the octagonal pagoda, with the squatting statue

Walked through the famed path lined by old fir trees on both sides, just outside the temple.

Second temple - Sangwon-sa Temple.

Drove another half an hour or so through unpaved road to the second temple. Had to climb up steep staircase to reach the temple. 

a steep ascent to the temple

Next stop... Wonju suspension bridge, which was just opened early this year. 

Climbed up 578 steps before reaching the suspension bridge.

the winding steps

Went to buy dinner and miscellaneous stuff from nearby Emart, before checking into our hotel @ Danyang. The hotel is located at a secluded place on a hill with some farms nearby. Took our dinner in the common room. Looked like we were the only family staying there for the night.

Day 8 (Nov 14)

Visited Guinsa 救仁寺, which is built in a narrow valley. 

Had to park our car at the foothill, and took shuttle bus that drove us ~800m up to the entrance of the temple. 

The building complex was build in 1940s. Due to space constraints, the buildings are built in 3-5 storeys instead of the usual single/double storey design.

Witnessed the volunteers, young and old, helping out with the preparation for lunch and dinner for visitors to the temple.

Don't missed the hall honouring the monk who first set up the temple here many years back (have to enter a new building, take elevator to level 7). 

view of the valley from the top floor of the building

the main hall commemorating the founder of the temple

I called it the "Dragonball"

 Took our lunch at the temple.

Next stop was Hahoe Folk Village @Andong, a world heritage site. Strolling around the village, admiring the restored ancient buildings with people staying inside. A place to see old architectures. 

Make some wishes at the sacred tree located in the heart of the village.

strolling in the Hahoe Folk village

Inside the traditional house.. a modern vehicle!

making wishes

 

Drove all the way to Gyeongju... Stopped over for BBQ beef/pork before checking into our hotel (Cheonggong Hanok Stay), a Hanok styled guesthouse! The guesthouse was rather elegantly decorated!

Day 9 (Nov 15)

Took some photos of the beautiful Hanok guesthouse before we checked out.

Drove to Bulguksa 佛国寺 temple, took light breakfast at a restaurant right across the temple before visiting the famed temple. 

Quite a number of tourists in the temple.

The park in front of Bulguksa

After Bulguksa temple, we drove to Seokguram Grotto 石窋庵, another UNESCO heritage site. The main attraction is a stature of Buddha in a grotto (no camera allowed inside the grotto).

entrance to Seokguram Grotto

Had to walk a further distance, perhaps another 10 minutes or so, before can reach the grotto

the grotto further up, on the left 

Entering into the hall housing the Grotto with Buddha statue

After Golguksa, we drove to another temple nearby, namely Golguksa 骨窟庵. At the entrance, the first thing that impressed us was portraits of pugilistic monks showcasing their various pugilistic moves (akin to that of Shaolin monks).

Scrutinize the wall and you may be able to master some martial arts / strokes

The autumn foliages in the compound were very enchanting.

Had to climb up steps to view the image of Buddha carved on a cliff.

climbing up the steps to view carved Buddha statue at the peak of the cliff

Took our lunch at nearby restaurant, eating fish, beef and pork... Ordered from the pictures depicted in front of the restaurant. 

Due to time constrain, we had to give Tongdosa temple 通度寺a miss. Instead we went to visit Gyeongju Tomb Complex and the adjacent Cheogdaesome observatory. Saw many tourists walking around the areas in full Hanbok attires.

the ancient celestial observatory tower, one of the tourist attractions in Gyeongju.
not so sure why it is so important though

Drove to our hotel, Aega Hanok Guesthouse @ Daegu 大邱. Had a hard time locating the guesthouse. Parked our car in adjacent private parking lot (paid 10,000 won for overnight parking). The owner of the guesthouse led us to nearby tourist shopping streets for dinner. We took BBQ pork/beef for dinner. 

After dinner, we walked around doing some window shopping.... Went back to our guesthouse around 9pm+. Compared to the Hanok Guesthouse in Gyeongju, this one is more run down and down to earth. The room was much smaller, and the owner was kind enough to open up another "secret" chamber (which can accommodate additional 2-3 persons) next to our cubicle (had to climb up a few steps to reach the chamber).

Day 10 (Nov 16)

Cook our own breakfast - instant noodles with teas, provided by the guesthouse (breakfast included for the stay here).

Departed from the guesthouse, and drove towards Haeinsa 海印寺, an world heritage site which is well known for collections of Buddhish scriptures carved in wooden blocks.

Had to climb up a slope, cutting through winding streams with cascading water running pass rocks/pebbles, before reaching the temple.

The building where the wood scriptures are kept

It started to rain by the time we walked back to our car. We decided to head back to Seoul. Reached outskirt of Seoul by 5pm, but it took another 1.5 hour just to clear the last 15km of the journey to get to our apartment in Seoul itself (because of heavy traffic jam!).

Dropped off our luggage at the apartment, before driving off to return our rental car together with CK. The GPS led us to back entrance to the Lotte car rental company wedged among some dark back alleys with narrow lanes; the front door of the rental company was located just next to Petrol Kiosk near the main road... We ended up having to make a few turns before figuring out how to get to the front entrance. 

Walked for about 25 minutes to our apartment after dropping off our car. Too tired to explore Seoul. Had to retire early, because need to join the Koridoor DMZ tour early morning the next day.

Day 11 (Nov 17)

Woke up early for light breakfast, then walked 2 minutes to a building a few blocks away to join the Koridoor DMZ tour. 

I booked for a full day tour (which supposed to include the JSA Joint Security Area/ Panmumjeom) - but the tour was cancelled in last minutes (notified by emails a few days ago) --> had to join a half day tour of the other DMZ area (3rd tunnel, observatory towel, Peace Memorial park). 

The half day at DMZ area though was not as exciting as that of JSA/Panmumjeom, but it was an eye opening experience nevertheless. 

I was particularly haunted by a fleeting video footage of a young child (probably 3-4 years of age) standing besides the dead bodies of his parents (I presumed), wailing and waving his arms up/down in desperation. A sad reminder of innocent casualties of North/South Korean War.

Just outside the building housing the 3rd Tunnel

walking to the observatory tower

at the top floor of observatory tower, looking out at North Korea 

North Korea beyond DMZ

the compound in front of the observatory tower

a flock of birds flying over the DMZ 

In front of the observatory tower

Stopped for lunch at a canteen located next to the North/South check-point

Off limit for public/unauthorised vehicles

The deserted Dorasan Station, last train station before entering North Korea

Memorial to offer prayer / best wishes for separated relatives far away in North Korea

Peace Park

The bridge with railway leading all the way to North Korea

Train that was bombed and riddle with bullets during the Korean War

The DMZ tour finished around 2.15pm.

We walked to Seoul Station - exploring Lotte Mart / Uniqlo nearby, before taking train ride to the famed ginseng chicken soup restaurant near the Gyeongbokgung  palace for dinner.

Walked from the restaurant, passing through the Gwanghwamun Square (where a few election rallies were being conducted) and the Cheonggye Stream (which is a major restoration work to create environmental friendly urban dwelling place), heading towards Myeongdong (CK was looking for his Uniqlo pants).

Gyeongbokgung Palace

 Gwanghwamun Square

Election rally next to the square

Myeongdong Night Market

I was dead tired, and sat / rest at the steps in front of Uniqlo ...

Day 12 (Nov 18)

Last day in Seoul. 

Our departure flight was at 2.45pm. There was not much time to explore the town in the morning. Hence, we took our leisure time to wake up around 8am. Took our breakfast, did final check and packing of luggage, checked out from our apartment by 10.30am.

view from our apartment

Walked to the Namyeong Train Station 2 minutes away, heading for Seoul Station to catch the AREX direct train to Incheon International Airport (checked in our luggage and collect boarding pass from the station itself). The train was spacious (allocated seat) and departed on time (ran nonstop all the way to Incheon International Airport (~50minutes ride, hassle and traffic jam free). Highly recommended!

Flight departed on time, and we reached Singapore on scheduled by  8pm+.

After thoughts:
1. Highlight of the road trip - finally has somebody as a co-driver in the road trip!
2. Between South Korea and Japan, I personally prefer Japan. Food is better, has easy access to onsen, people are more friendly. Even the scenery seems much better.
3. This is essentially a temple heritage trail. There are many ancient temples (most of them listed under UNESCO World Heritage Sites) in South Korea. Apart from some with distinctive architectural designs and special significance, most of them look the same after a while. On hind sight, we should have just visited some temples, and left the remaining time for other sightseeing activities (e.g. hotsprings, other natural highlights).

CK, the driver and CJ, the companion