Tuesday 31 December 2019

Osaka / Kyoto self driving tour (Dec 2019)

As the children grow older and have their own preoccupations, it is getting more difficult to coordinate family travel together.

CY is now working in Melbourne, and both CK and CJ are studying in their respective universities in different places. The last time CY was available was probably 2 years ago, when we went for a tour in Tokyo.

CY managed to come back in December during her enforced annual leave. She had a wedding dinner to attend on 29 Dec. We took this opportunity to arrange for a one-week driving tour to Osaka/Kyoto from 21-28 Dec 2019 (in actual sense, it was only 6 full days of travel, as the first and last day were spent in the air literally).

This time round, the entire itinerary was planned by CK. Both CK and CJ did all the driving (I only drove in the first leg, driving out from Kansai airport to Kuromon Market).

Day 1 (21 Dec)
Depart from Terminal 4 airport at 8pm, transit at Hong Kong airport for about 2 hours, before arriving at Kansai airport the next day at 7am.

Transit @ HK Airport

Day 2 (22 Dec)
Picked up our rental car from Times Car Rental. Added 2 additional drivers (CK and CJ) into the booking. Rented ETC card (for hassle free clearance of toll gates). After inspecting the car (7 seater Toyota Isis), and loading our luggages, off we went to our first destination @ Kuromon Market.


Kuromon Market
It was rather empty when we reached there (~9am+). But the crowd started to stream in about 1/2 hour later. A rather touristy place - sampling the local delicacies.


Not so crowded yet...

Grilled octopus

Kobe beef stick


Sushi

White and Red Strawberries ... very sweet indeed!

buying some sea urchins

preparing the sea urchins


We spent over 1 hour there.... then drove to our next stop Mozu Tombs.

Mozu Tombs and adjacent Daizen Park
Mozu Tombs are a cluster of several ancient tombs, and a Cultural World Heritage Site. The largest mound of tombs (resting place of the nobles) is surrounded by long stretch of ditch and not accessible to visitors (only can take a glimpse from outside the fence).

The largest mound of tomb surrounded by ditch. further ahead.



Daizen Park

The adjacent Daizen Park was quite spacious and peaceful. A number of elderly ladies were doing morning exercises there. Apparently, there were some smaller tombs scatterred around the park as well. 




strolling in the park



Next stop... Osaka Castle.

OSAKA castle
The fortress surrounding the castle is truly majestic and daunting. It should not be missed! We just explored the compound surrounding the main castle (which houses a museum), and didn't enter the main castle itself (entrance fees needed). It was drizzling when we reached the place.



bridge leading to the fortress




Osake Castle... the main building (it houses a museum)




It started to rain heavily subsequently as we left the place. Wanted to look for a place for ramen... and was guided by Google Map to a restaurant in Dotonbori unwittingly.... super heavy traffic congestion... decided to give it a miss and drove directly instead to our lodging for the night.

Dotonbori -- Drove pass the busy roads enroute to rented apartment
Hozen-ji Temple -- did not visit

After checking into our rented apartment (nao's Riverside House), we had our dinner in a restaurant located within a train station building complex nearby (eating noodles, tempura with rice). After dinner, I dropped the kids off at Dotonbori and returned to our apartment. 
The kids explored Dotonbori on their own in the rain, and returned around 10pm + (there is a metro station wihin walking distance from our apartment).

double room @ basement

triple beds @ level 2
Day 3 (23 Dec)
Self checked out from apartment. Our original plan was a 2-3 hour hiking to visit Takatori Castle ruin. But Google Map guided us all the way up to the mountain peak near where the ruin is. Parked our car by the road side, and hiked a short distance (5 minutes or so) to the ruins. 

hiking

some more hiking

again... more hikng

Breath in the fresh air



















Only a handful of local visitors was there exploring the ruins. The scenery was quite impressive! 

Drove all the way to Kaiun Bungy (located @ Kaiun bridge in Ikoma), for bungy jumping. The feat was accomplished by the youngsters only, of course. Was wonderfully surprised that there was an ancient temple (Chogosonshi-Ji Temple, which represents peaceful reign, protection of the country and long luck of posterit) adjacent to the bridge. This is apparently one of 4 well-known temples located high up the mountains in Japan.

Bungy Jump @ Kaiun bridge




Safety briefing before the jump



CJ did the first jump



CK jumping!

CY was hesitating..... but she finally made the jump as well

After completing the jump


Visited Shigisan Chogosonshi-ji Temple after Bungy Jump
It is apparently one of the big temples built high up in the mountain. It was dedicated to Bishamonten, one of the Seven Deities of Good Fortune.
There are many halls scattered around the vast spacious compound. Definitely worth a visit when travelling in Nara Prefecture.

walking towards the temple











It was around 4pm when we finished touring the temple. All of us were hungry by then. But alas, most of the restaurants only open for business between 12noon - 2.30pm for lunch, and after 5pm for dinner!
Ended up buying some hot deli from the supermarket and ate them in our car!
Drove to Nara Royal Hotel @ Nara after that.
Took our dinner (Japanese rice) in a restaurant near shopping street of Nara before checking into our hotel.


Onsen was available in Nara Royal Hotel. There were a few pools there, and the place was fairly big. However, the atmosphere was somehow not so conducive. Had to leave the place after less than 10 minutes of deep soak in the onsen. 

Day 4 (24th Dec)
Buffet breakfast included in the hotel charges.



Departed from the hotel to our one and only tourist destination for the day: Nara Park!

Nara Park
Parked our car right in front of Kasuga-Taisha Shrine.
On entering the park, sight of docile deers lazing and wandering around the grassland would catch your attention.
The "juxtaposition" of shrine / marble lanterns and deers created a mystic and spiritual feel to the surrounding. The deers would bow three times to visitors in anticipation of being fed deer cookies!

There are three major shrines in the park, namely Kasuga-Taisha Shrine, Toda-ji Temple and Kofuku-ji Temple. If you are short of time, Toda-ji Temple is a "must-do" place!

Kasuga-Taisha Shrine




"attacked" by the deer with horns



Enroute to Todai-ji Temple
Feeding the deers....








TODAI-JI Temple (admission fees applied)
The ancient wooden temple is simply magnificent and inspiring. The ancient Buddha statue housed inside the temple is both solemn and serene to look at.
A sight not to be missed in Nara Park! 

















Kofuku-ji Temple







We drove all the way to Kyoto after Nara Park. Checked into Kyoto Hana Hotel, then drove to eat Ramen in one of the local restaurant (had to queque for our turn - the restaurant can only accomodate 15-20 persons at most).




We ordered special, standard and mini Ramen - and realised that they were all of the same flavour, except for the quantity of noodles/meat! The Ramen was fairly deliciously, and the dumplings were even better!

Day 5 (25th Dec)

Fushimi Inari Shrine
First stop @ Fushimi Inari Shrine - free parking for once, just in front of the shrine!

The shrine is well known for its Tori-lined steps, all the way to the peak of the mountain. We stopped at half-way point, to enjoy the scenic view of Kyoto city, before making our way back to the foothill to get our car.

The place was crowded with tourists. It was not easy to get a picturesque photo of the rows and rows of Tori (as depicted by travel brochure).


















Hafl way point, a resting place for a view of  Kyoto


A garden at the foothill...
Next stop @ Nishiki Market (almost of similar nature as that of Kuromon Market in Osaka)






didn't realize that photography is not allowed, until after the shopkeeper reminded me

CK bought a pair of Nike shoes from ABC Mart



CY and mom spent over 1/2 hour in the drug store in Nishiki Market.... had to forego Tadasu No Mori (a nature park), and drove straight to Enryakuji Temple @ Moutn Hiei instead.
And of course, you could imagine how "black" CK's face was!

Enryakuji Temple (another World Heritage Site) at Mount Hiei

Google Map guided us to the summit of Mt Hiei (again had to pay toll to drive up the summit), where we parked our car and walked for ~30 min through scenic walking trail to visit the main attractions at Todi area. The main hall houses lamp/lamps that has/have been remained lighted over thousand of years 千年不灭灯。

view of Lake Biwa

posing in the midst of finding out direction to Toda temple

walking towards the trail to the temple

Walking trail to Toda area









Finally reaching the Toda areas




The main hall is undergoing a ten-year renovation since 2016, and is covered by scaffolding. Could not see the external facade of the main hall, but still allowed entrance to view the lamp with the 'thousand-year-never-extinguished-light" shielded inside.

It was 4pm by the time we finished exploring the main hall in Toda's area. Too late to visit our temples/halls of Mount Hiei. We took a shuttle bus to the peak, to get our car, then drove off to Takashima (for a impromptu tour of western side of Lake Biwa). 

Took our dinner at a restaurant - tasting BBQ beef/pork for the night. It cost us ~S$130 for a family of 5. Not too expensive, but the food wasn't that great either (average I would say).


By the time we reached Village Kyoto hotel, it was nearly 9pm. Went for onsen in the hotel. It was smaller than the one in Nara Royal Hotel, but the ambience was better.

Day 6 (26th Dec)
Took light breakfast in the room before venturing on to our next destination - Togetsu-kyo brige 渡月桥and nearby attractions (Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, Kameyama-koen Observation point, Riverside walkway).

Togetsu-kyo bridge, spans 155m across Katsura River. It is simple yet artistic/aesthetic.




view from the bridge




Walking towards Tenryu-ji Temple 天龙寺

walking towards Tenryu-ji Temple

The main attraction of Tenryu-ji temple is the Zen inspired garden.
before enteriing Tenryu-ji Temple

inside the temple











Then, the highlight of the trip --- Bamboo Grove 竹林小径 (located just behind the temple)
I was underwhelmed by the Bamboo Grove. It was not as majestic as I expected. The crowded tourists made it even less impressive a place. Hmm, perhaps the Bamboo Forest near Chengdu, where the filming of Crouching Tiger was made, is better!
Anyway, we had to take the obligatory photos...





Then we walked further up.... to Kameyama-koen Park and its Observation Point.


The view from the Observation Point was simple divine!




Walking down the trail to the river below.... then walked along the riverside pathway back to Togetsu-kyo bridge.













back to the bridge
Had our lunch at the local restaurant there - took some ramen, tempura rice... the usual staples. Not bad, I must say.

Our next destination was Mt Atago and the nearby Atago Shrine. It was too short a time for hiking, hence we keyed in Atago Shrine in Google Map. We were led through a narrow paved road (which serves as a dual carriage way, but can allow one car to drive pass in most places) that meandered along the side of deep valley. 




We had a difficult time locating Atago shrine - it was only when we made a reverse drive back that we saw a small signage pointing towards a small slope up the mountain. It was too narrow for us to negotiate our rental car through the various turns of the road... hence had to abort the trip.

Drove all the way to our hotel @ Ryokan Fushioukoku.
Reached there quite early around 5pm. Checked in, then drove out for shopping at Daiso, and went for dinner at a Ramen restaurant.


Retired earlie to our hotel. Enjoyed the outdoor onsen for the night.

Day 7 (27th Dec)
Almost coming to the end of our trip.
Took buffet breakfast in the Ryokan before departure.
View of the mountain from our room:



Rainbow in the sky, enroute to Settsukyo Gorge Park.


We were guided by Google Map to the Gorge (the west bank)...but alas no car park available there. CK and CJ managed to guide us to the east bank, and managed to locate a car park there!

walking towards the gorge













Shirataki waterfall in the Gorge Park












Final destination for the day - Minoo Park and its waterfalls

view of adjacent Onsen Resort.. has to take a lift up to the resort
 A 30-40 slow walk, up the slope to reach the waterfalls.







maple leaves crackers
 Left for Osaka.... had a taste of Ichiran Ramen. 名副其实, 好味!Truly live up to its reputation, Super delicious!


we park our car at the big shoppnig complex on the right
Had a sumptous late dinner at 9pm in local BBQ restaurant. Quequed for about 20 minutes for our turn. The food was superb... definitely worth the wait.



Self checked into our rental apartment (<10minutes drive from the restaurant). Topped up our rental car petrol to full tank enroute to our apartment. Had to engage the help of a fellow driver nearby to help us in negotiating the self service screen in the petrol station in order to pump petrol.

Day 8 (28th Dec)
End of journey. Checked out from rental apartment by 6.30am. Returned rental car by 7.10am. Checked into our flight to Hong Kong, which departed at 10.10am. Transit in Hong Kong, then flew back to Singapore (reached Singapore around 7pm),

After thoughts ....
1.We learnt how to pay for parking fees via the vending machine for the first time! 
2. And boy oh boy, the toll fees and parking tickets were truly exorbitant ! 
   We spent about S$130 for toll fees for the entire trip. 
   Parking rate ~ $3-4 for every 20-30min in the city